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Rudder Stock Repair [Nigel Coupar]

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Rudder Stock Repair [Nigel Coupar]

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Nigel Coupar wrote:

Having taken a knock over the weekend i now have to dismantle the rudder stock and replace the spring and spacers associated with the rudder locking device . I am having difficulty removing the bolt through the A Frame, which appears to have ceased. Laser can supply a rudder service kit @ ?30.00 but my initial problem is the removal of the bolt and to dismantle the assembly.
Any helpl gratefully recieved
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Stocks and Bolts [Keith in Singapore]

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Keith in Singapore replied:

Nigel

Has same problem..........above all don't bash the hell out of the end of the bolt or it'll kill the thread, and/or dislodge the aluminium sleeve in the rudder. At worse use a flat bar placed across the nut, which is wound on enough to just leave the bolt recessed. Best is to use a slide hammer with a recessed hollow tube head.

Reckon whatever you do a new bolt will be required anyway.........so whack away......

Aluminium oxide will have 'welded' the two parts together, and the sleeve is probably already turning in the blade, not the bolt within the sleeve.

My solution was penetrating oil soaked in for a few days, then heat, but only applied through the use of boiling water, not a flame (rudders - I suspect - burn very well!).

A few smart taps (both ways helps)and hopefully it'll come out.

Alternative is to take it to a machine shop and have them mount it up and drill the bolt through on a pillar drill.

Net effect in most cases.......wrecked bolt....and you will need to re-bond the sleeve in to the rudder with epoxy.

Happy engineering

Keith
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Rudder bolt seizure [Bob]

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Bob replied:

Hi Nigel,
I agree with Keith #1. The bush and the bolt corrode together and are difficult to separate. This is particularly true on boats which have been sailed on the sea. In the extreme you have to cut it out. I have been successful carefully cutting through the bolt each side of the rudder with a sharp hacksaw. This damages both inner washers and the bolt - all of which come with the repair kit.
However you get it apart - the message is clear. Before reassembly make sure that you coat the new bolt and bush with water proof grease or Vaseline before reassembly. After experiencing this problem some years ago I always disassemble the rudders of my new boats and grease the bolts before the problem arises.
Cheers
Bob
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Rudder Stock repair kit [nigel coupar]

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nigel coupar replied:

After recieving the rudder repair kit from Laser. I find that 2 types of Pop rivet are required one size for the pintel casting and another size to secure the locking spring. Only available from guess you know who (Laser) and they are currently out of stock. Yet another weekend away from the water. Then they tell me that my standard pop rivet gun will not work because the rivet is oversized.
Replacement springs do not come as part of the Rudder servicing kit they are purchased seperately (?5.00) Again only available from Laser.
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Rudder Dispair [Bob]

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Bob replied:

I have done this repair several times with a standard pop rivet gun and standard rivets you can buy from DoitAll, or most motor car parts shops (factors). I've never had to replace the spring - you can usually bend it back into shape once the rudder is apart. Why not save ?5 and give it a try?
Best of Luck
Bob
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Steering Stuff [Keith in Singapore]

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Keith in Singapore replied:

Only comment Bob is that the rivets should preferably be monel, not soft aluminium as used for windows etc, with a pin made of something that doesn't rust. Motorfactors are probably better as rivets for cars etc are most likely to be able to put up with salt water etc. The thing about not being able to use a rivet gun is, I agree, a misnomer.......most guns come with changeable cones......just watch those knuckles.....been there, done that, grown back the nails!
Cheers

Keith
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